![]() ![]() Preparationįirst, you must install a ball lock conversion kit to your existing kegerator lines. This type of keg is by far the most common and recommended serving vessel for homebrewers when it comes to kegging their own beer. With both methods, we’ll assume that you are using a standard homebrewing-type Cornelius keg that is fitted with ball lock-style liquid and gas posts. There are two main methods for force carbonating a homebrew keg, both of which are very similar with the main difference being the amount of time it takes to carbonate. Proper keg post liquid & gas line fittings Need some help here from experienced brewers. Do I need to add some dry yeast also? Do I need to resanitize the bottles if I’m just going to put the beer right back in? Adding more priming sugar (1 cup this time I guess?) and rebottling. ![]() Any thoughts? What would be the best way to fix it? I was thinking of opening all of the bottles and pouring them back into the bottling bucket. So I guess the problem could be that I didn’t use enough priming sugar, or that I didn’t get enough yeast into the bottles to carbonate. When racking to the bottling bucket, I was also pretty careful about trying not to suck up much trub. ![]() When I crack open a bottle, I just get the slightest hiss… no bubbles at all. I didn’t really measure is, but I think I used about 2/3 of the cup of sugar it came with (I actually bottled this in February… just haven’t had time to fix it yet). ![]() This batch ( DFH 90 minute clone) also called for 1 cup of priming sugar, but I decided to only use part of it to prevent over carbonation. Both of those batches came out way overcarbonated (to the point where you can only pour half a bottle of beer in a glass because there is so much head… makes you burp after every drink). The last two batches I made (all from* alternative beverage) have called for 1 cup of priming sugar right before bottling. ![]()
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